Blog Post 4 - Stephen Burrows - America’s Fashion Trailblazer
Stephen Burrows is a fashion icon and trailblazer who deserves more recognition. His groundbreaking talent, intentional use of color, fabrics, texture, and meticulous attention to detail reshaped the industry and put New York City on the map as a fashion capital. Burrows' emphasis on designing clothes that move, coupled with his profound understanding of a woman's body, inspired countless individuals. He had a unique ability to make women feel sexy and seen. Burrows showcased to the world not only the immense potential of American fashion but also highlighted the extraordinary contributions of Black designers, models, and talent in the fashion industry. He used metal mesh before Gianni Versace. He created the wrap dressed before Diane Von Furstenberg, deconstructed fabric before Armani. From his groundbreaking use of color to his unique use of details to his pivotal role in the infamous Battle of Versailles Burrows was meant for greatness.
Stephen Gerald Burrows was born on September 14, 1943, in Newark, NJ to parents Gerald Burrows and Octavia Pennington both of whom held creative careers themselves. In hindsight, the trajectory of Stephen Burrows's career feels as if it was destined to be. Burrows's father was an artist, and his mother was a sample maker. The creative lineage doesn’t end with his mother and father, Burrows was raised by his grandmother Beatrice Pennington Banks Simmons alongside his parents. Simmons was a sample maker as well as the person who taught Burrows how to sew. Burrows was enamored by his grandmother’s zig zag sewing machine which led to Simmons teaching Burrows how to sew and thus shifted the dynamic of Burrows's childhood and career. What later became Burrow's signature — the lettuce hem and zigzag seams were fostered during his sewing lessons with his grandmother Beatrice.
From a young age, Burrows embraced a passion for the arts, music, and the creative scene that fueled his imagination. His love for the Mambo during high school inspired him to sketch ideas and create stunning looks for his dance partners. Burrows credits his father for his love and passion for music. Burrows remembers sitting in his fathers lap as Gerald created caricatures of stars in the Harlem nightlife such as Billie Holiday. This strong connection to music and art would continue to define Burrows' journey. With dreams of becoming an art teacher, he enrolled at the Philadelphia Museum College of Art from 1961 to 1963. While exploring different departments, he found himself captivated by the economics department, filled with mannequins. It was at this moment that Burrows discovered his true calling, ultimately paving the way for his career and leading him to transfer schools. Burrows transferred from the Philadelphia Museum College of Art, packed his bags and began his journey as a student and designer at FIT from 1964- 1966.
For a short period of time post grad Burrows was hired as a designer for Weber Originals, once leaving Weber Originals acted as the co-founder of “O” boutique. “O” boutique was an art-forward shop that featured a small of amount of Burrows clothing which quickly turned into essentially a clothing shop with a small selection of art due to the success of Burrows designs. Unfortunately the unfamliarity of what was the financial responsibility of funding the process of creating the clothing unfortunately lead was to the downfall of “O” boutique. Though “O” boutique was a short-term success this was the era in time of which allowed Burrows and his career to thrive. The “O” boutique stood across from Max’s Kansas City, a popluar night club at the time. Burrows fostered meaningful long-lasting connections with promising stars, models, and socialites at the time. His clientele as well as inner circle included people such as Cher, Barbra Streisand, Diana Ross, Miles Davis, Nina Simone, his muse Pat Clevland, Andy Warhol, and more.
On the search for a new source of income, Joe Schumaker a friend of Burrows introduced Burrows to Geraldine Stutz of Henri Bendel, a popular luxury department store. After a discussion with Stutz offered him a boutique space on the third floor almost instantaneously. Burrows received the offer Friday and started the following Monday. The PR team at this establishment was the catalyst that helped launch Burrows’ career.
Battle of Versailles
In 1973, Burrows made history as the first black designer to win a Coty award, catching the attention of Eleanor Lambert, who was rallying American designers for the iconic Battle of Versailles. Originally a charity event to raise funds for the restoration of the Palace of Versailles, this fashion show transcended its purpose, becoming a monumental clash of talent. Burrows, alongside renowned American designers like Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Bill Blass, and Ann Klein, faced off against legendary French fashion houses including Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, and Hubert de Givenchy. His innovative use of black models, vibrant music, and dynamic movements brought a fresh perspective that the French fashion industry had never witnessed before. With their groundbreaking performance, the Americans emerged victorious, forever changing the landscape of fashion. This moment illuminated the brilliance of American designers, showcased the richness of the American fashion industry, and elevated the stature of New York City as a global fashion capital.
Burrows experienced a degree of success after the Battle of Versailles, but sadly it didn't reach the heights of his counterparts. Over the years, he faced significant challenges in keeping his brand afloat, striving to reestablish himself in a competitive industry. This struggle was particularly deeply touching considering that influential figures like Oprah and Michelle Obama chose to wear his designs, highlighting his talent and contribution to fashion. Despite these moments of recognition, he continued to encounter obstacles while receiving various achievement awards, which only highlighted the uphill battle he faced.
Achievements
1973, 1974 + 1975 -Coty award winner - first black designer to do so
1975 - Council of American Fashion Critics Awards + - Knitted Association Crystal Ball Award
2003 - Introduction to Fashion Walk of Fame
2006 - Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Board of Directors Special Tribute Award
2014 - Andre Leon Talley Lifetime Acheivement Award + Pratt Institute Lifetime Acheivement Award
Listen in!
This playist is inspired by Stephen Burrows, his use and love for not only color but fun silhouettes…most importanly his love for dance scene. I hope this playlist gets you dancing.
